Company of Cordwainers

This weekend I was formally sworn into the Company of Cordwainers in York - one of the seven ancient York Guilds still in existence today.

The Company dates back to the medieval period and forms part of York’s long history of skilled trades and craftsmanship that still survives in the city today. The earliest recorded reference to the cordwainer trade in York appears in the Freemen’s Rolls of 1272–1273, with “Thomas de Fulford, Cordwainer” listed as the first entry.

New Member of the Company of Cordwainers in York

Cordwainers were traditionally workers in “cordwan” — a fine leather originally imported from Cordoba in Spain, typically made from goatskin. The Company’s coat of arms still reflects this history, featuring goat heads linked to the origins of the leather trade. Historically, the guild played an important role in York life, helping maintain trade standards, train apprentices and contribute to civic and religious events within the city.

As someone who spends most days hand stitching leather goods in a studio, it felt genuinely meaningful to become part of an organisation with such a strong connection to traditional leatherworking and craftsmanship. While modern leatherwork looks very different to medieval York, many of the same values still apply; good materials, skill, patience and making things properly.

Morgan + Wells has grown steadily over the last few years through commissions, exhibitions, teaching workshops and continuing to champion traditional leatherworking and British-made materials. Becoming part of the Company of Cordwainers feels like an important part of that journey.

What I particularly appreciate about the Company is that it isn’t simply about history or ceremony. The Guild continues to support education, craftsmanship, charity work and civic life in York today, helping keep traditional trades visible and relevant in the modern world.

One thing I found particularly interesting is the history behind the word “cordwain” itself.

Originally, cordwain, or cordovan leather - referred broadly to fine leather produced in Córdoba during the medieval period. Much of this early leather was made from goatskin, which is why the Company of Cordwainers coat of arms features goat heads.

Today, many leatherworkers immediately think of shell cordovan when they hear the term. Modern shell cordovan is actually something quite different, a highly specialised leather made from the fibrous membrane beneath the skin on a horse’s rump. Over time, the name became strongly associated with horsehide because shell cordovan developed such a reputation as a luxury leather.

It’s interesting how the meaning evolved over the centuries, from fine goatskin leather from medieval Spain to one of the most recognised luxury horse leathers in the world today.

It was a really enjoyable weekend, and I’m very proud to now be part of the Company of Cordwainers in York.

For more information about the Company of Cordwainers, visit The Company of Cordwainers of the City of York.